5 Lavender Mistakes That Could Seriously Harm Your Plant

Lavender and I have had a complicated history. After multiple attempts at killing it off, we’ve finally reached an understanding. As someone who’s familiar with the feeling of rolling their eyes when told that a plant is low maintenance only to proceed to kill it, I’ve learned what not to do when it comes to growing lavender. In fact, I’m now quite good at it. But, don’t get ahead of yourself – we didn’t always have this peaceful cohabitation.

It was a series of trial and error moments where one mistake would be followed by another, until we finally figured out the right way to grow together. In hindsight, it’s funny how quickly things turned around once I started doing things differently. Today, I’m here to help you avoid the same mistakes I made along the way. Whether you’re just starting out or looking to improve your skills, this is a crash course in all things lavender – from planting to watering to propagating.

By the end of it, you’ll be well on your way to enjoying a harmonious relationship with your lavender plant.

Mistake 1: You’re planting your lavender in too much shade.

When it comes to planting lavender, timing can be everything. Many gardeners purchase potted lavender and transplant it into their own gardens. However, if the plant starts showing signs of distress after transplantation – such as slowed growth or a loss of vibrancy – it’s likely due to inadequate sunlight exposure. Lavender thrives in full sun for at least six hours a day, with even more intense sunlight during the peak summer months.

If your lavender is not receiving sufficient sunlight, it’s essential to relocate it immediately. While this may cause some initial shock from the plant, it’s better to move it sooner rather than later. The longer you wait, the more challenging it will be to transplant a larger, established lavender shrub.

Mistake 2: You’re watering your lavender too much.

Imagine the scenario where your once-vibrant lavender plant starts displaying symptoms of wilting and browning leaves over the course of several weeks. You might instinctively reach for the watering can, assuming the issue stems from a lack of moisture. So, you give it a drink, followed by another and another, only to be met with continued decline. It’s a puzzling conundrum, indeed. But here’s the surprising truth: overwatering is likely the culprit behind your lavender’s sorry state.

When plants receive too much water, it can lead to damage to the root structure, ultimately resulting in root rot and impaired water absorption.

Remember that overwatering leads to root rot.

As I reflect on my gardening journey, I’m reminded of a not-so-proud moment: dealing with a dead lavender root structure ravaged by root rot. Yet, I believe it’s crucial to share our mistakes alongside our triumphs. It’s a valuable lesson in humility and growth. As I bid farewell to my overwatered lavender, I’m prompted to consider the plant’s natural habitat – the Mediterranean region, where dry climates prevail.

Lavender’s waxy foliage is designed to conserve moisture, reducing transpiration and locking it in. This adaptation means it requires less water than many other plants. When growing lavender in pots, maintaining this delicate balance is straightforward: simply wait until the soil feels thoroughly dry before watering again. But what about lavender grown directly in the garden? It’s surprising, yet true – even in its natural environment, lavender can be overwatered.

A reminder that even with experience and knowledge, there’s always room for improvement and a willingness to learn from our mistakes.

It comes down to location, location, location.

When it comes time to transplant your lavender, select a location that offers excellent drainage. If water tends to collect in the area after a storm, leaving puddles on the surface even an hour after the rain has stopped, it’s likely that the soil retains too much moisture for your lavender to thrive. This issue is particularly prevalent in high-humidity climates, where the struggle to keep your lavender healthy may simply be due to the environmental conditions.

On the other hand, if you notice new growth on your lavender is a vibrant green, this is a sign of good health. To address drainage concerns, consider planting your lavender in soil with a sandy or gritty texture, which will help excess water escape more easily. Alternatively, choose a spot that’s slightly elevated compared to the rest of your garden, allowing gravity to do its job and remove any lingering moisture.

Lastly, improving the overall drainage of your soil by incorporating fresh compost is a valuable step that will benefit all drought-loving plants in your garden, not just your lavender.

Beware of overwatering by proxy.

When it comes to overwatering your lavender, another crucial factor to consider is its proximity to other plants. If you’ve planted your lavender alongside thirsty neighbors, you may inadvertently be watering them as well. This might lead to a double whammy of too much moisture for your lavender. To avoid this common mistake, make sure to keep an eye on the water needs of nearby plants and adjust your irrigation schedule accordingly.

As someone who’s currently making this exact error by allowing a cucumber volunteer plant to grow next to my own lavender, I can attest that it’s not ideal. However, sometimes you just have to roll with the punches – or in this case, let the cucumbers do their thing while keeping a close eye on your lavender’s watering needs.

Mistake 3: You’re fertilizing your lavender too much.

When it comes to caring for lavender, I’ve found that the plant doesn’t require synthetic fertilizers at all. In fact, I prefer not to use them in my garden. Instead, I focus on providing a nutrient-rich compost layer that feeds the plant over its growing season. This approach allows the lavender to thrive without relying on artificial boosts. A key indicator of over-fertilization is when leaves turn yellow and appear unhealthy – a clear sign that the plant is receiving too many nutrients.

Lavender’s natural growth habits make it well-suited to this minimalist approach, as it doesn’t need synthetic fertilizers to produce beautiful blooms. However, I do want to caution against ‘over-fertilizing by proxy’ – when you inadvertently fertilize plants nearby, including your lavender. This can happen when you overwater or apply excess nutrients to hungry plants in your garden, which can then be absorbed by the surrounding soil.

By being mindful of these potential pitfalls, you can ensure a healthy and happy lavender plant that flourishes with minimal intervention.

Mistake 4: You’re over-pruning your lavender.

In my previous guide on pruning lavender, I covered both fall and spring approaches in detail. However, one crucial aspect still warrants emphasis: new growth arises from old wood, not the other way around. The sprouts will emerge from established woody stems, a characteristic that’s easy to overlook. Unfortunately, the most common mistake when pruning lavender is over-pruning, which involves cutting back to hard, woody growth.

If you do encounter some fresh green shoots amidst the old growth, it’s acceptable to prune back some of the older stems as long as there are still enough new sprouts to take the lead and continue growing. However, if you’re left with only woody stems, you’ve likely pruned too aggressively. As lavender ages, it naturally becomes more woody. This is part of its charm, but it also means that the plant will eventually show its age.

Some shrubs may maintain their neatness and blooming pattern for a few years, but most will peak in this regard before reaching ten years old.

Mistake 5: You’re not taking backup cuttings.

While it’s not necessarily a mistake, it’s crucial to have a plan B when it comes to your lavender. If something happens to your plant or if it becomes old and unruly, having a backup cutting can save the day. The good news is that lavender is relatively easy to propagate, with multiple opportunities to take cuttings throughout the year. In fact, you can harvest softwood, semi-hardwood, and hardwood cuttings between May and October, giving you a significant window of opportunity.

For a step-by-step guide on how to successfully propagate lavender, I recommend checking out this tutorial that includes detailed photos. While starting lavender from seed is also an option, I highly suggest trying propagation by cutting first. It’s a more forgiving process, and the results are often more predictable. Starting from seed, on the other hand, requires patience and dedication – it can take up to 200 days for the seeds to germinate and mature into a full-fledged plant.

However, if you’re willing to put in the time and effort, the reward is well worth it. For those who do choose to start from seed, I’ve written a comprehensive guide on starting flowers from seed that’s definitely worth a read. Ultimately, the beauty of growing lavender lies in its ability to forgive even the most novice mistakes – just be sure to catch any issues early on.